PROPORTION

Proportion or scale or relationship of various spaces to the
whole space. Good design will result from the correct propor-
tion used between the different sections of the garment. The
proportion can enhance or distort the garment depending on
usage, but must be related to overall appearance. Proportion
should be studied carefully to achieve the correct balance in the
design. Proportion refers to the relative size and scale of the
various elements in a design. The issue is the relationship
between objects, or parts, of a whole. This means that it is
necessary to discuss proportion in terms of the context or
standard used to determine proportions.
The timeless simplicity achieved by a perfect proportion makes
some classic fashion wearable for many many years. By changing
the proportion of a design different styles will result from the
same basic idea. The relationship in a design of one part to the
other and of all the parts to the whole is termed as PROPOR-
TION. The individual parts of apparel such as collars, cuffs,
pockets, sleeves, trimming, patterns and textures should be in
relation to the size of the wearer and to each other. Each
element or style feature of your dress should compliment each
other, they should look comfortable with each other.

FORM AND SHAPE

Form and shape are areas or masses, which define objects in
space. Form & shape imply space, indeed they cannot exist
without space.
There are various ways to categories form and shape. Form and
shape can be thought of as either two-dimensional or three-
dimensional.
Two-dimensional form has width and width and height. It
can also create the illusion of three dimension objects.
Three-dimensional shape has depth as well as width and
height.
Form and shape can also be described as either Organic or
Geometric.
Organic forms such as the snow-covered mountains typically
are irregular in outline, and often asymmetrical. Organic forms
are most often thought of as naturally occurring.
Geometric forms are those, which correspond to named
regular shapes, such as squares, rectangles, circles, cubes,
spheres, cones, and other regular forms. These forms are most
often thought of as constructed or made.
However, not all objects are geometric, many designed forms
have irregular contours.
Shape -Difference Between Shape And
Silhouette:
Shape is the series of lines of different types, which gives a
basic silhouette, from which a design is created. Shape can affect
the proportions and can either be harmonious or contrasting in
its conception. The basic silhouette can be changed by raising or
lowering the hems of shirts, jackets, sleeves, necklines, and also
by widening or narrowing skirts, sleeves or necklines.

COLOUR HARMONY AND COLOUR COMBINATIONS

It is selection or arrangement of colours in such a way to give
pleasant & attractive appearance. Naturally, it is important for
any colour combination to give a feeling of harmony, to
produce such a well co-ordinated arrangement or combination
of colours that they all seem to go well with each other.
Colours should seem to belong together and no colour should
look conflicting or out of place.
This may be done by combining related colours in monochro-
matic harmony. It may also be achieved by using contrasting
colours in a complimentary harmony. Whichever you choose
one colour should be emphasized with the other playing
subordinate role.

Complexion & Skin - Tone

This makes it possible to camouflage figure irregularities by
People tend to select colours that are compatible with their
complexions. Colour prediction services often ignore the fact
that colours should flatter people. There are two basic complexion
types: -
(i) Warm - toned skin with yellow undertones and
(ii)Cool-toned skin with blue - pink undertones.
Colours that compliment the basic colour characteristics of the
wearers’ skin. Tones will flatter them and make them appear
healthier and prettier. Warm Skin tones should select colours
with a yellow undertones (brown, orange, mustard, yellow etc;
black and gray are earthen tones and will look good on Indian
skin that has a yellow undertone) and Cool Skin tones will be
most flattered by colours with a blue base. Using red as an
example, a rich tomato red would be most flattering to a warm
skin tone. The cool version would be a blued red to magenta.
Some lucky persons are able to wear both color palettes.
Environment:
Environment also affects the use of colour. People who live in
warm climates tend to have more pigment in their skin due to
overexposure to the sun Warm climates encourage people to
wear bright colours that compliment darker cornplexions Light
colours reflect heat making them popular warm-weather
colours too.
Age: -As one ages, the skin and hair colouring become less
intense. Harsh, bright colours and clear pastels are generally less
attractive on the older person. Just as nature softens personal
coloring by the aging process, so the mature individual should
soften their colour choice. Vivid colour contrast with fading
skin & hair that emphasize age.
Personality and Figure Shape and Size
Colour applied to the body will create a variety of illusions.
Designers should be aware of how colour can highlight parts
of the body and minimize figure problems, especially if
designing for a special -size woman. In a crowd, the lighter
colours prompt out and darker colours blend with background.
Light colours have power to attract the eye and hold attention
The contrast between light and dark is used frequently to create
effectively illusions that disguise figure problems. Contrast
accents different parts of the body and creates subtle illusions.
This makes it possible to camouflage figure irregularities by
drawing the eye to one’s most attractive feature. Dark areas
recede visually, so an area of the body that is disproportionately
large can be balanced by covering it with a dark garment. Light
colours stand out, which makes light areas seem larger than
they are especially when contrasted with dark areas.
The contrast between light and dark colour is used frequently to
create effective illusions that disguise figure problems. Contrast
accent different parts of the body and create subtle illusions.
drawing the eye to one’s most attractive feature. Dark areas
receed visually, so the area of the body disproportionately large
can be balanced by covering it with a dark garment. Light
colours stand out, which make light areas seem larger than they
are especially when contrasted with dark areas. When the bodice
is darker than skirt or pant, the shoulder and bust size is
minimized. The figure will appear shorter because the dark
value dominates the light bottom. A dark pant or skirt
minimise the hips and make the person seem taller.
Some examples of color illusions follow:
1) A garment in one color (or tones of that color) adds to the
illusion of height, especially a floor – length garment (long
skirts and pants).
2) Darker colors worn above the hipline with lighter bottoms
tend to shorten a figure
3) Darker colours recede visually, and light, bright colors pop
out. A woman with a large bust and slender hips can
equalize her figure by wearing light coloured pants and a dark
top.
4) Light colours are flattering around the face. The eye seeks out
light colors when they contrast with a dark garment. A white
collar on a dark dress emphasizes the face.
5) Bright colours focus on an area of the body, wear them to
highlight a positive feature, like a bright belt on a slim waist.
6) Bright colors (like red, bright purple, chrome yellow, and hot
pink) against a plain neutral background will visually “pop”
the shape.
7) Space filled with pattern will seem lager than plain space. A
boldly patterned blouse worn with a pair of dark pants will
make the bust and torso area seems much larger than the
hips.To acquire an eye for colour illusions, one has to study
clothing on various figure types, making mental notes about
how different colours and patterns flatter the wearer.
Other than these Season. Occasion, Fashion, Design and
Culture also determines the choice of colours.
Add Colour To Your Life:
Colour can really affect the way you feel. It can affect our health
and even change your personality. It can also alter the way
people feel about you. For example, if you were going to a party
with two people, one dressed in brightly coloured clothes and
the other in dark browns or grays, the chances are that you
would want to make more conversation with the one dressed in
light clothes. You instantly assume that the one dressed in light
is the life and soul of the party. Colour analyses: -
Purple: - Purple is regal and dignified, the colour for people
who love to look smart and sophisticated.Red: - Red is exciting and stimulating Truly the colour for
extroverts. It’s a colour that makes you look & feel bold.
Blue: - Wear pale blue if you’re in a mood to unwind and relax.
Blue is a very soothing colour because of its association with
water.
For Fair Skins: - Use - Pure white, red, gray, black, all shades of
pink, navy blue, spinach and emerald green, purple and violet.
Do Not Use: - Brown, orange, gold, beige.
For Dark Skins: - Use - Red, pure whites, fuchsia pink,
aquamarine, grayish blue, deep orange, silver, dark mauve and
fresh green.
Do Not Use: - Black, brown, gold, light orange.
Colours
Colours have a strong influence on everyday life. Some colours
have a stimulating effect, while others are more restful. Some
colours make you happy, others depress and make you sad.
Since colour has such definite effect it is important to know
how to use it pleasingly.
What is Colour?
All objects around us do have a colour. But how do they get
their particular colour?
Colour is the ability of a surface to reflect light rays. White light
is made up of seven colours i.e. violet, indigo, blue green,
yellow, orange & red and each colour has its own wavelength.
The white ray of sunlight passing through the prism when
spread outs on the white paper has a multi- coloured band,
with red & violet at each end.
If something appears red, it is because it absorbs all the colours
of the spectrum except red. Thus red is the reflected colour,
which we see. In the case of black articles all the colours are
absorbed; since no part of light ray is reflected it appears black.
White article reflects all the seven colours back.
A green fabric appears green in white light because the dye on
the fabric absorbs most of the light and reflects only light with
wavelengths, which appear green to the eye. There are different
greens because the reflected light is composed of different
wavelengths, which depend on the type of dye, amount of dye
and structure of the textile material.
Three Categories Of Colour: -
1) Primary Colours – They are all pure colours, cannot be
made by merging any colours and are called true colours – Red,
Blue & Yellow.
2) Secondary Colours – Colours, which are formed by mixing
two primary colours, are called secondary colours. They are also
called intermediate colours.
Red + Blue = Violet
Red + Yellow = Orange
Blue + Yellow = Green
3) Tertiary Colours – The colours obtained by mixing two
adjacent colours (Primary & Secondary) on the colours wheel
gives tertiary colours.
E.g.- Orange +Green = Moss - green.
Green + Purple = Olive - green.
Purple + Orange = Reddish Brown

COLOUR VALUE

: - Colour is the first thing that a
customers notices about a garment. It costs a manufacturer very
little to change colours, but any new colour will stimulate the
sale unexpectedly. Two factors influence designer’s choice of
colour:
(a)The commercial colour prediction.
(b) Whether the colours are appropriate and flattering for
specific customers.
(a) Commercial colour predictions: Today’s designer should
study information provided by professional colour- services,
like colour forecast by ICA, promo style, The colour box etc.
These colour services predict clobber trends for various markets
18 months ahead before the merchandise are shipped to
retailers. They are especially helpful while designing ranges for
export markets.

(b) Whether a color is appropriate and flattering for a specific
customer?
Aesthetic colour decisions are based on selecting flattering
colours and applying colour to the body to create visual
illusions.

Textures

: - Also refers to the appearance of the fabric;
texture means the hand i.e., the way fabric feels The designer
develops this vogue (knowledge, trend), awareness of how
fabric feels, i.e., the ‘Tactile Sense’ (the knowledge of how to feel
the fabric) into a conscious knowledge of the appropriate
texture for specific garments, e.g., a designer uses his tactile sense
to study the elevations of fabric just as a potter experiences the
basic stone or clay with his hand and eyes. The design student
should begin to develop a tactile sense by sourcing and draping
fabrics. Look at the fabric and feel its texture, experiments with
fabrics should be done to see how they cover they body and fall
on it.

Silhouette

The silhouette (outline or style of a garment) is the most
dominant visual element of the garment and it dictates a great
deal of other styling features/elements that make up a design.
Fashion circles often focus on a specific silhouette but because
of the diversity of modern line many kind of apparels are used
concurrently and a person usually has a great variety of silhou-
ettes in his or her wardrobe at the same time. All people do not
wear the same silhouettes. People wear different silhouette
according to the season, occasion and taste.
Silhouettes are modified or altered by adding fabric padding at
various parts of the body or corseting (narrowing) the waist or
bust to create specific illusions. The shape of the silhouette
usually compliments the shape of the body, but exaggeration is
often used to create a specific or special effect or balance and
emphasis a part of the body, that is currently in focus or
fashion.
The basic silhouettes are: -
(a). Slim Line Silhouette
(b). Soft Dressing Silhouette
(c). Shoulder Wedge Silhouette
(d). Hour Glass Silhouette
(e). Extreme Volume Silhouette
(a). Slim Line Silhouette: - Pants, tight fit skirts slacks, shorts,
etc. are a few examples of slim line silhouettes. Slim line
silhouettes hug the figure with very little space between the
garment and the body. It is a “Classic tailored” silhouette
(extremely well tailored or stitched garment). The tailored
silhouette for women is very exceptable for business apparel,
because, it is similar to men’s business suit. Pants or trousers
must fit well to enhance the figure (it is a unisex clothing). The
illusion of height is easily created with pants, jeans, slim fitted
blouses and other slim line silhouettes.
(b). Soft Dressing Silhouette: - Straight gowns, pleated skirts,
parallels, jackets, regular fit jeans, burmudas, tops, dungaries
etc. are a few examples of soft dressing silhouettes. Sot
dressing silhouette describes a garment styled with more ease
and fuller fit. Softer, thinner, and flowy fabrics (light weight
fabrics) are usually used for this type of silhouette.
(c). Shoulder Wedge Silhouette: - This uses a padding or
fullness, to enhance the visual width of the bodice at the
shoulder, this gives the figure a masculine width at the
shoulder and tend to make the hip area look narrower by
comparison and usually the bottom is slim in contrast to the
shoulders. This silhouette also makes a person seam taller.
Slight padding on sleeve extention can effectively balance any
figure and squaring the line of the shoulder makes a person
seam tall and gives a more youthful look e.g.: - few examples of
shoulder wedge are coats, jackets, Raglan sleeves, Batwing
Sleeves, Leg-o-Mutton sleeves, Dolman sleeves etc., cut with a


great deal of fabric under the arm will create a wedge silhouette.
This silhouette is a style variation that tends to be popular
when more masculine values are attributed to woman. Shoulder
pads were popular in “tailored suits” during world War I, when
women were encouraged to join the work force.
(d). Hour Glass Silhouette: - This is a feminine silhouette
because it contrasts full bust with wide hips. The narrow waist
is the accent that provides constant contrast between wides areas
of the figures. This has been a dominant theme throughout
fashion history because it emphasizes typical feminine figure
characteristics. In the past waist inches were pulled to make
female waists look extremely slim. Sometimes these cruel efforts
to make flexible waists smaller, wear so harsh that women
fainted from being corseted (this silhouette was during 18th to
19th century). Flared skirts teamed with tops that have fuller
sleeves and a very fitted waist create thin illusions. This
silhouette is very feminine, i.e. the width of the hips and bust
are increased by contrast with a smaller waist.
(e). Extreme Volume Silhouette: - Extreme volume silhouette
is sometimes a popular fashion. To achieve this look, several
layers clothes are worn at one time. Layering several bulky
garments over each other to create an extreme figure volume is
an example. This silhouette is particularly suitable for cold
weather dressing and is often found in outer wear. This fullness
of the garment successfully camouflages many figure problems
and large women have a variety of wardrobe choices. When
fashion decreases fullness is beautiful.
This silhouette is very dramatic and effective on a tall woman
and it will successfully camouflage angular body lines if worn by
tall slender women. Full volume silhouette is very typical of
worm winter clothing.